Friday, 29 March 2024

Hinterland: rurality, community and heritage in Ceredigion (conference paper)

 Between 2011 and 2013 I worked on a project in rural Wales to increase community engagement with heritage.  The project had difficulty in achieving all of its aims.  My reflections on the experience formed the basis of a paper I presented at the CHAT conference in 2016.  I prepared a text for publication but plans for the conference volume fell through, so I present it here as written at the time.

I should note that since then, the temporary Pilgrim statue mentioned has been replaced by a crowdfunded permanent statue,  and the Strata Florida Trust has developed a museum, excavation and heritage events programme, and has published a series of books about the abbey and its landscape.


Hinterland: rurality, community and heritage in Ceredigion

Martin Locock, University of Wales Trinity Saint David

Contemporary and Historical Archaeology in Theory, Orkney, 21-23 October 2016

 

Abstract

The village of Pontrhydfendigaid in rural Wales is a long way from anywhere.  It shares its landscape with the remains of the Cistercian abbey of Strata Florida, now in the care of Cadw: Welsh Historic Monuments, promoted as one of the jewels of Welsh heritage.  Alongside research excavations by University of Wales Trinity Saint David, an EAFRD funded project was run in 2011-2013 to promote understanding of the heritage by local businesses and the community. 

The project encountered a variety of responses reflecting disengagement with the conventional connoisseur narrative, going beyond apathy and lack of knowledge.  This paper explores how the community defines itself in relation to tourists, authorities, and the past, rejecting the imposition of external agendas in favour of an identity constructed from social networks, in which the association with agriculture, mining, and Welsh language culture is of greater significance that the monument on their doorstep.  In addition, working with the community revealed the complexity of the population’s cultural and social affinities, suggesting that it should rather be thought of as a group of overlapping communities with distinct interests, membership rules and practices. 

The relationship between local inhabitants and their neighbouring icon is enacted through different cultural forms, including family history, poetry, ghost stories, leisure activities and well and cemetery visits; their understanding of its formal academic history and significance may be minimal.  Rather than assume that their interest can be readily attracted through exposure to generic heritage discourse, it is necessary to consider the distinctive elements within the heritage bundle and the emotional baggage they may carry.

The paper concludes by reflecting on the construction of place and identity in a rural context and the tensions inherent in living alongside an asset valued highly by others.

 

Introduction

One of the beneficial by-products of the instrumentalist approach to heritage, seeing it as a mechanism to build community identity, social inclusion and a tourism-based economy, has been a democratisation of heritage.  Previously, heritage was considered a national good, to be preserved and passed on to future generations.  Efforts were made to engage the majority of the nation in actually enjoying the heritage as visitors, but it was clear to all that identification, selection, and custodianship lay in the hands the knowledgeable few who held both power and knowledge.  For a decade, this view within the profession has shifted towards acknowledging that ‘we are all archaeologists now’ (Holtorf 2015: 217).  The community archaeology of the last decade has links that can be traced back to the Manpower Services Commission schemes of the late 1980s which for the first time sought to include members of local communities with the examination and presentation of heritage, both as workers and audience.  There remains a debate about whether all values should be driven from below, or if there should remain a role for the expert in defining what LauraJane Smith in The Uses of Heritage has called an ‘authorised heritage discourse’:

The AHD is considered a self-referential discourse that ‘privileges monumentality and grand scale, innate artefact/site significance tied to time depth, scientific/aesthetic expert judgement, social consensus and nation building'” (Smith, 2006: 11)

Thus Smith describes a discourse in which straightforward power relations are moderated by the inclusion of expertise and social context, what Brand (2004: 15) describes as the tripartite definition of cultural value between specialists, the public and the government.  The Faro Convention (Council of Europe, 2005) adopts a bottom-up approach where a ‘heritage community’ is conceived as an ad hoc collaboration between individuals and bodies who share a common goal in the management of heritage, implying that a consensus should be sought that satisfies all parties.  There is a danger with this that a community becomes ‘The Community’, essentialising group identity and masking the complexities of social relations (Smith and Waterton 2013: s.6); rather it may be necessary to think of a series of communities with memberships and relationships.  

These theoretical questions came to the fore in the course of recent work by the University of Wales Trinity Saint David near the village of Pontrhydfendigaid, Ceredigion, Wales, and this paper explores how, in practice, a community relates to and constructs its own heritage.

 

Hinterland

This paper takes its title from the recent TV detective series co-produced by S4C and BBC Wales, and filmed in both English- and Welsh-language versions.   The aesthetic of the series is consciously derived from the ”Nordic Noir” dramas of Wallander and Forbrydelsen (The Killing), featuring loving panoramas of bleak skies over barren hills, scattered farmhouses heavy with feuds and secrets, and a feeling that modern civilisation is a long way away (Moss, 2013). 

The series is filmed in the area of Ceredigion to the north and east of Aberystwyth, the western edge of the Cambrian Mountains, what the poet Harri Webb has called “the Green Desert”.  Those familiar with the area will recognise that the impression of isolation and emptiness is artfully created by the use of selected camera positions, the creation of a virtual location from a mosaic of real locations, and showing only the most telegenic of weather.  Nevertheless, this artifice reflects a core truth – that this is an area where nature is unconfined but culture is.  There are few people, and population change is slow; the combination of push factors leading some to leave, and pull factors leading incomers to settle, creates a distinct and specific social milieu detached from metropolitan Britain.  It might be expected that such a context would be highly hospitable to the valuing and enjoyment of heritage.

Pontrhydfendigaid is a small nucleated linear settlement to the northeast of Cors Caron, a large lake and peat bog.  Its name (literally ‘the bridge over the ford of the maiden [Virgin Mary]’) reflects its location on the banks of the River Teifi.   Although its history can be traced back to a medieval settlement of bondsmen of Strata Florida Abbey, it owes its size and character to the 19th century boom in silver lead mining in the vicinity (Bezant 2014, 61; Austin, 2013a; Dyfed Archaeological Trust, n.d.).  There are a few hundred residents.

 

Pontrhydfendigaid’s authorised heritage discourse

The picturesque ruin of Strata Florida Abbey has been part of antiquarian consciousness for 200 years; it was the subject of the largest 19th century excavation in Wales in the 1880s, funded by the Cambrian Archaeological Association, yielding decorated floor tiles that went on display in the British Museum.   When the Manchester and Milford Railway arrived, day excursions to the ruins were advertised. 

The significance of the site has been endorsed through legal protection: it is a Scheduled Ancient Monument (among the first batch of sites in Wales to be included) and a Grade I Listed Building.  It falls within the Upland Ceredigion Landscape of Outstanding Historic Interest in Wales and is one of the 123 sites managed by Cadw: Welsh Historic Monuments. 

As a Cistercian monastic house, it has enjoyed academic prominence (Austin 2013b).  The Cistercians are the rock stars of monasticism, subject of a steady stream of conferences and publications.  “For many, the Cistercian order remains the medieval monastic success story par excellence” (Stober, nd).

The iconography of the abbey and, in particular, the graves of the princes of Deheubarth and the key role of the scriptorium in preserving Medieval Welsh literature, has made it a touchstone for Welsh nationalism, lying outside the more politically sensitive Norman edifices of North and South Wales.

National and regional tourism campaigns have promoted the Abbey, basing its importance of this cluster of endorsements from experts and professionals, defining and perpetuating an Authorised Heritage Discourse.  

 

The project

Since 1999, the University of Wales Trinity Saint David has been undertaking a long-term research project into Strata Florida and its landscape, including documentary research and mapping of landholdings (Bezant, 2009), geophysical and ecological survey (Bezant, 2007), building recording, and research excavations in areas around the Scheduled Ancient Monument designated site.   The programme’s centrepiece has been a four-week training excavation with up to 100 students from Lampeter working on the site (Austin 2004).    The project has featured on TV including Digging for Britain (2012) and Hidden Histories (2010).  Although efforts were made to publicise the University’s work and involve the local community, it proved hard to establish and foster connections. 

In 2011 UWTSD successfully applied for £0.4m funding from the EAFRD (European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development) for the Strata Florida Heritage Landscape Tourism Project under Ceredigion’s Axis 323 (Connecting People, Nature and Heritage strand).  This was a two-year programme intended to develop the local economy by encouraging the use of heritage by local businesses in their marketing, improving interpretation and access to the Abbey environs, and undertaking events and activities to engage the community and to promote the area to tourists.  The mid-term evaluation of Axis 323 noted “With a view to maximising their potential impact, projects should be encouraged to avoid an over focus on ‘preaching to the converted’ and targeting ‘new’ groups to participate in the project” (Wavehill, 2012), and in keeping with this the activities included open days, talks, school sessions, and a conference.  One of the requirements of the funding was for the documentation and evaluation of the impact of the activities, involving measures including visitor counts, questionnaires and surveys, and as a result it is possible to assess objectively the extent to which the community became engaged. 

 

Community engagement

Prior to the commencement of the project, Cadw recorded 5,000 visitors per year to Strata Florida Abbey (Peate, 2010).  It was recognised that the vast majority of these visitors were from outside the local area (95% or more).  From a tourism point of view, this can be seen as a positive characteristic, since these visitors bring new spending into the local economy, but on the other hand this reflects a disengagement by the community.   The project therefore targeted the local population through activities aimed at outreach through linking up with existing networks, and offering accessible pathways to encourage engagement with the heritage.  A quarterly Community Liaison Group was set up, bringing together local councillors, landowners and representatives of community groups, to consult on and promote activities.  An intensive effort was made to raise the heritage component of primary school teaching in the area through a programme of weekly talks to the four local primary schools over a term, culminating in a site visit.  

A baseline survey of all users of the visitor car park was undertaken on one day in August 2012; individuals were asked about their main reason for visiting, whether they had visited before, and their home address.  The results confirmed that the visitor profile was dominated by long-distance tourists.

In 2012 a two-day series of site Open Days were held, focused on the continuing archaeological excavation of the monastic gatehouse, but also including children’s activities, living history performers, storytelling and musical performances, craft displays and activities, and site-specific sculpture.  Although it was expected that these Open Days would prove attractive to heritage tourists, it was hoped that the addition of the range of less formal attractions would encourage the inhabitants of Pontrhydfendigaid to visit (the excavations were open to visitors throughout the digging season).  As it happened, the weekend coincided with extremely heavy thunderstorms, high winds and flash flooding, rendering travel difficult.  It was considered that this would reduce the proportion of people travelling longer distances to attend.

A further event was arranged in October 2012 in the form of a one-day conference in Lampeter, ‘Celtic Myth and Landscape’.  It was hoped that broadening the topics to include elements of literature and art would appeal to those whose interests lay outside conventional archaeology.

Table 1: Home address of participants at Strata Florida events 2012

Home address

Baseline survey

Open Day

Celtic myth and landscape

 

No.

%

No.

%

No.

%

Pontrhydfendigaid postcode

0

0%

33

50%

2

6%

Other Ceredigion/Lampeter postcode

4

29%

13

20%

14

45%

Other Wales

5

36%

14

21%

12

39%

England

5

36%

6

9%

3

10%

Total

14

100%

66

100%

31

100%

 

The pattern of engagement is broadly consistent:  however locally-focused the event, the bulk of participants are drawn from elsewhere, despite the various attempts to expand from a strictly archaeological agenda to include ancillary sectors and activities.   Broadly speaking the approach adopted was the Fields of Dreams model: if we build it, they will come, or if we make people aware of the heritage, they will become interested in it.  The conclusion reached by the project was that this approach is naïve: after so many opportunities for engagement, lack of take-up must reflect something more fundamental, a decision to not engage.

The problem of reaching new parts of community was encountered across the RDP programme, even though its importance was recognised:   “The impact of the projects, in terms of making people aware of and interested in local heritage, will be / has been substantially greater if they are able to engage with groups of visitors and/or local residents who were previously unaware or uninterested in that heritage” (Wavehill, 2015).

Fundamentally, the question can be redrafted as “why does the Authorised Heritage Discourse fail to appeal to many in the local community?”  With that framing, disengagement becomes more explicable.  Parker has argued in Neighbours from Hell? that the Welsh cultural experience can be seen as a long history of being told what to do by their English rulers (2007, passim).   In the case of Pontrhydfendigaid, it has been accustomed to the literal and metaphorical hegemony of English kings, French monastic orders, the English church, English and Irish gentry estate owners (the Stedmans and the Earls of Lisburne), government agencies such as the Forestry Commission and Cadw, and parliaments and assemblies in Cardiff and Westminster.  In the circumstances, the community might legitimately see the university as just the latest external authority seeking to define how they should behave.

 

Complexities of identity and the Unauthorised Heritage Discourse

Drilling down from “the Community” in order to establish how engagement might be more effective, it is clear that it would be more accurate to talk of communities- an overlapping set of groups and sub-groups with differing memberships reflecting their identity, interests and social relations.  In such a small community, the pattern in surprisingly complex, perhaps reflecting the rurality of the region.   In a larger conurbation, individuals are free to seek out and link up with others who match their outlook closely, often relying on informal networks and a stream of one-off events.  In an isolated settlement, there are fewer such opportunities to develop and strengthen bonds with others.  In their stead, membership of multiple groups, and avoidance of other groups, can be used to reflect an individual social persona.

Table 2: Oppositions and communities in Pontrhydfendigaid

Welsh speaking

:

English speaking

Native

:

Incomer

Anglican

:

Nonconformist

Young

:

Old

Working class

:

Middle class

Farmer

:

Villager

Ecology

:

History

Dog walker

:

Horse rider

Women’s Institute

:

Merched Y Wawr

 

Not all of these oppositions are necessarily hostile, but they do represent a fragmentation of identity which affects the viability of efforts to engage with the community.   It is also reflected in the variety of cultural practices that have developed in which people engage with heritage on their own terms.

The Unauthorised Heritage Discourse comprises the elements of culture and history that are valued by the community (or parts of it) without reference to the gatekeepers of authority.  Usually these elements are left unexpressed, but in this case local tourism businesses had been asked to identify what made the area special as part of a Sense of Place workshop (Visit Wales 2015).   After adding the obvious, authorised, elements, a hinterland of more visceral and individualistic emerged: ghost stories, folk tales, mining lore, onomastic and family stories, poetry, and traditions linked to places.   For example the local mysterious big cat, The Beast of Bont, was cited with pride rather than being seen as a negative aspect (Coard, 2007; Hurn, 2009; Furness, 2012).

 The key components of the Unauthorised Heritage Discourse are those that are embodied in cultural practice; the performative element celebrates, reinforces and transmits the meaning.  The annual Bont Eisteddfod provides a focus for Welsh-language music and literature creation and performance within the community.  Another ritual specific to Wales is the ‘Sul y Blodau‘ (Flower Sunday), the annual practice of visiting all the family graves on Palm Sunday and decorating them leaving flowers.  

Another local tradition is the leaving of flowers and candles at a spring (or holy well) in the bank of the Afon Glasffrwd at Ffynnon Dyffryn Tywel (‘the spring in the quiet valley’).   This is anonymous and individual (it is unclear who is responsible, and how many different people are involved), but is presumably associated with some form of pagan or earth magic belief.  It is interesting that this practice has emerged in a place with a long history of ritualised practice using water, including the chalybeate springs whose iron-rich health-giving properties were one of the attractions cited for railway day-trippers in the late 19th century, the Ffynnon Lygaid (‘eye well’) of early post-medieval date, and Pantyfedwen, which may be medieval in date (Evans 1903, 32).  Proponents of ‘deep mapping’ would argue that such recurrences reflect a continuity embedded in the relationship between human and landscape (Kavanagh 2015), but it is curious that the specific locales vary over time.

A final recurring practice are regular visits to the Anglican church at Strata Florida, whose graveyard contains a yew tree traditionally associated with Dafydd ap Gwilym, the foremost medieval poet in the Welsh language.  

What these features have in common is that they are not arbitrary visits to arbitrary places of some notional interest: they are imbued with a hinterland of meaning and purpose reflecting the value to the individual.  This applies a symbolic meaning of the landscape which could be co-opted into the Authorised Heritage Discourse.  As Belford has noted, a community may wish to influence the discourse, not develop their own (2011, 64).

 

Semi-authorised heritage discourse

From a pragmatic point of view, the issue faced by the custodians of the authorised heritage discourse is how to replicate the enthusiasm and interest arising from the Unauthorised Heritage Discourse instrumentally to achieve their desired ends in terms of the public good of increased engagement with heritage by previously disengaged groups.  Are there any narrative strands that might be used to bring together the power of story with the physical heritage?  

One aspect of the rural community is the longevity of families and their associations with places.   In the case of the post-medieval ‘squatter settlement” of Rhos Gelligron on the edges of the common to the southeast of the village, the limited archaeological evidence of the abandoned buildings was supplemented by a much richer social history narrative preserved by descendants of the occupants, who had moved into the village (Tarlow, 2009).

The Nanteos cup is a small wooden bowl (a medieval mazer) held by the successors to the Stedmans, the post-Dissolution owners of Strata Florida; its actual provenance and history is unknown, but for more than a century it has been the subject of a speculative narrative that associates its use for healing in the 19th century, arrival at Strata Florida in the final days of monasticism, and before that perhaps a role in the Last Supper as the Holy Grail.   In the 1900s, Evans sought to popularise this account as part of his efforts to preserve and promote the Abbey ruins (Jenkins, 2009: 5).  

As part of the 2012 Open Days, nine members of Sculpture Cymru were commissioned to produce site-specific works, created and installed during the week and displayed at the Open Days.   The works were intended to be ephemeral responses to the heritage and landscape of the area, and included references to metalworking, ceramics and textiles.  The most ambitious work was The Pilgrim, by Glenn Morris, a 3m-high statue positioned on the summit of the small hill overlooking the Abbey.  The statue comprised wooden elements bolted to a steel frame anchored into the ground by concrete. In allusion to the use of the uplands by the Abbey for sheep pasture, the statue was clothed in a woollen smock.  The appearance of this new feature on the skyline had an immediate effect and was adopted as a local landmark by the community.  Although it had been intended that the statue would be dismantled after the project, the reaction was so positive that it has been left standing, and has become an icon for the area (for example, it was used on the cover of the photograph collection Ceredigion At My Feet (Hughes 2016)). 

If it proves possible to harness the power of stories like these, the heritage of Pontrhydfendigaid may come to be seen as part of the community rather than simply located within it.  The Strata Florida Trust is currently in the process of taking ownership of farm buildings adjacent to the ruins with the intent of developing the Strata Florida Centre with true community involvement (Bettley, 2016).  Alongside a continuing increase in the number of visitors (to 6,391 in 2014 (GSR, 2015)), the economic and cultural impact of the heritage appears to be growing.

Conclusion

A project working in an area with a large population can afford the luxury of narrowcasting: if it only reached 5%, or 1%, of the audience, there will still be hundreds of people packing out events and completing evaluation forms.  As a result, it may never occur to funders or implementation staff to consider who they are missing, and why they might not be responding as desired.  In a rural context, disengagement is visible.

The experience of the Strata Florida Heritage Landscape Project shows that even with good intentions and local knowledge, a conscious re-learning is necessary to reframe an Authorised Heritage Discourse to appeal to a community which may have little interest in an official or academic narrative whose stories stir in them no recognition or emotion. 

 

 


 
Acknowledgements

The Strata Florida Heritage Landscape Tourism Project was part-funded by the European Agricultural Fund for Rural Development through the Welsh Government.  The author is grateful to Professor David Austin for his contribution to the development of this paper; the views expressed are his own..

 

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